Week on South Pacific Island with My Best Friend’s Husband

This post recounts a memorable trip to Niue where a 50th birthday was celebrated by snorkeling with humpback whales. It reflects on the quiet power of enduring friendships, marine encounters, and why remote South Pacific islands like Niue (and nearby Vanuatu) remain essential for travellers seeking profound, restorative experiences.

Why Niue is one of the best places to swim with humpback whales

Niue is a tiny, 100-square-mile island in the South Pacific with fewer than 2,000 people. That small scale is exactly its strength.

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The island’s clear waters, absence of river runoff and abundant marine life make it a rare place where whispered encounters with whales can happen in guided, respectful settings.

Scenic Matavai Resort sits within earshot of the ocean and a local culture that truly values the sea. At the resort the sight of a whale can pause dinner — a bell is rung to alert guests.

For those wanting to get closer, local operators such as Niue Blue run guided snorkel swims timed to the humpbacks’ migratory patterns. These create unforgettable moments under the surface.

A 50th birthday under the song of male humpbacks

Journalist Terry Ward chose to mark turning 50 by plunging into Niue’s blue with humpbacks nearby. She travelled with Jake — a longtime friend and husband of her closest friend, who had graciously stepped aside.

Together they snorkeled over singing male humpbacks and glimpsed endemic sea snakes. They stood on limestone cliffs that drop into coral shelves.

The trip combined adventure with intimacy: foraging at night for coconut crabs with local guide Tony Aholima. They listened to whale song beneath the waves and shared simple, companionable silences.

Ward used the journey as a counterweight to growing fatigue from political divisiveness and anxieties about AI’s influence on her profession. She preferred the clarity of seeing the world rather than writing about it from afar.

Practical tips for swimming safely with whales in Niue

If you’re considering a similar trip, here are a few practical pointers from decades of island travel:

  • Book with reputable guides: Operators like Niue Blue know whale behaviour and will keep encounters legal and safe.
  • Respect the animals: Keep your distance unless the guide directs otherwise — the best encounters are calm and non-intrusive.
  • Travel light and slow: Niue rewards patience; plan for snorkeling sessions, cliff walks and night foraging if offered.
  • Bring reef-safe sunscreen and a snorkel mask that fits: Clear waters make every detail visible — protect both the reef and your eyes.
  • Friendship, memory and the healing power of travel

    Beyond logistics, the story is also about relationships. Ward’s quiet celebration was defined by an enduring platonic friendship.

    A shared love of the ocean, decades of travel together, and the ease of mutual history made the week rich in small human moments. For example, a song briefly reopened the past and then closed again with the comfort of present company.

    As someone who has spent 30 years guiding and writing about the South Pacific, I see this pattern again and again: remote islands recalibrate perspective. Niue’s whale swims are a brilliant example.

    If Niue appeals to you, consider Vanuatu as well. Its archipelago offers vivid marine life and warm island hospitality.

    Seek operators who prioritize sustainability. Let the ocean remind you why travel still matters.

     
    Here is the source article for this story: Why I spent a week on a South Pacific island with my best friend’s husband

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